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Recipes: Savory

Functional Foods: Turmeric & Herbed Eggs (Kuku)

Hearing the words “turmeric” and “anti-inflammatory” in the same sentence was enough to put me on an experimental roll.  My mother has rheumatoid arthritis.  Functional foods that help prevent a recurrence of the pain and swelling – and keep her off of the steroids that induce what I unscientifically refer to as “Mighty Mouse” syndrome – are worth incorporating into our repetoire.  

Coincidentally, I tired of Caribbean cooking.  Somehow, everything tasted like adobo or a package of pre-mixed seasoning with achiote, the ground seed that gives color to arroz con pollo.  Not that these Latin staples aren’t wonderful.  They are.  I grew up on them, loved them, depended upon them for years to deliver the base for many of my family’s favorite dishes.  It was just that, these days, every time I tasted a dish using them, that was all I tasted.  It was predictable.  I was bored with the flavors.

The first thing to know about turmeric is that it stains everything.  So did achiote.  Would turmeric work in Spanish rice?  Yes!  The flavor is not identical, but I like it.  It has depth, it’s different, it’s satisfying, and the cilantro provides reassurance, that yes, this is home.  Turmeric works in red beans and black beans as well.  

That was the end of my experimentation … for a while.

Then, I discovered a cookbook with a plethora of delicious recipes, many of which used turmeric, and many of which were are vegetarian. 

A few months ago, my cousin’s husband, Terry, a communications professor, mused aloud that he’d like to travel to Iran.  He is one of the more adventurous travelers I know.  His wife sings in a chorus that travels.  Between his business and her singing, they hike, sing, and lecture overseas several times a year.  

Soon after, a woman I once worked with and always admired, Phyllis Stoller, who runs the Women’s Travel Group out of New York, announced her company was organizing a trip to Iran.  Intriguing.   

Around the same time, Check Please, our local public television food show, raved about a local Persian restaurant, offering an easy and affordable way to satisfy our culinary curiosity.  The food was, as promised, delicious.  The restaurant even had a little section with Persian spices for sale.  The quest to replicate some of the dishes at home led me to Joon, Najmieh Batmanglij’s wonderfully approachable book of everyday Persian recipes.  Many are vegetarian and many feature turmeric.

What followed was a month of sharing and photographing recipes from the book, including:

  • Kuku, an egg-based dish where the eggs are a simply a vehicle for holding an abundance of vegetables or greens together, laced with fragrant spices;
  • Turmeric & Lime Roast Chicken, with a beautiful deep golden color and a citrus kick;
  • Turmeric & Ginger Chicken Soup, comforting and healthy; and
  • Saffron Basmati Rice, with a crunchy layer of rice  (tah-dig) mixed with saffron, yogurt, and olive oil.  (I added turmeric to this, too.)

My favorite is Kuku Sabzi.  It is quite appropriately a rite of spring.  Overflowing with greens and herbs and flavored with advieh, a dried spice mix that includes rose petals, it is healthy and heady.  Glistening garnet-colored barberries sauteed quickly in a splash of olive oil provide a jewel-like garnish.

Here’s a quick video followed by the recipe.

Joon!  (Enjoy!)

Turmeric & Herbed Baked Eggs (Kuku Sabzi)
This dish celebrates spring with an abundance of fresh herbs and a dried spice mix that features dried rose petals.
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Ingredients
  1. CARAMELIZED ONIONS
  2. ====================
  3. 4 tblsp olive oil
  4. 2 medium yellow onions, peeled and finely chopped
  5. GARNISH
  6. ========
  7. 1 tblsp olive oil
  8. 1/3 c. dried barberries, soaked in cold water for 15 minutes, and drained
  9. 1 tsp grape molasses or sugar
  10. 2 tblsp water
  11. BATTER
  12. =======
  13. 6 eggs
  14. 1 tsp baking powder
  15. 1 tblsp advieh (Persian dried spice mix, see Notes, below)
  16. 1-1/2 tsp sea salt
  17. 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
  18. 1/2 tsp turmeric
  19. 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
  20. 1/2 c. finely chopped Romaine lettuce
  21. 1/2 c. finely chopped spring onions (green and white parts)
  22. 1/2 c. finely chopped fresh parsley
  23. 1/2 c. finely chopped fresh cilantro
  24. 1/2 c. finely chopped fresh dill weed
  25. 1 tblsp dried fenugreek (optional)
  26. 1/2 c. coarsely chopped walnuts
  27. 1 tblsp rice flour
  28. 4 tblsp olive oil, for cooking kuku
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees Farenheit.
  2. Line a 9-1/2 by 13-inch rimmed sheet pan with parchment paper.
  3. Wash and dry the greens and herbs. By the time you add them to the batter, they should be dry.
  4. Caramelize the onions: Heat the oil in a wide skillet over medium heat. Saute the onions until golden brown, approximately 15-25 minutes. Place the onions in a bowl and set aside.
  5. Prepare the garnish: In the same skillet, place the oil, barberries, grape molasses, and the water, and stir-fry for 4 minutes over medium heat. Barberries burn easily, so remove them as soon as they are soft and glistening. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.
  6. Prepare the batter: Break the eggs into a large mixing bowl. Add the baking powder, advieh, salt, pepper, and turmeric. Beat lightly with a fork. Add the garlic, lettuce, herbs, walnuts, flour, and caramelized onions, and fold in gently using a rubber spatula.
  7. Cook: Use a pastry to capture the oil from the skillet used to caramelize the onions (or use the 4 tblsp olive oil at the end of the ingredient list) and brush the parchment paper with oil. Pour in the batter. Gently shake the pan to even out the batter. Bake 15 minutes.
  8. Garnish: Remove from the oven and place on a cooling rack. Garnish with the caramelized barberries. Cut the kuku into serving-size pieces. Serve hot or at room temperature with lavash bread and yogurt.
Notes
  1. ADVIEH
  2. =======
  3. 1 tbsp dried rose petals (available on Amazon)
  4. 1 3-inch cinnamon stick, crushed (to help grind the other spices)
  5. 1 tbsp cardamom
  6. 1 tbsp cumin
  7. 1/2 tbsp ground golpar (also available on Amazon)
  8. Grind ingredients in a mortar and pestle. Use what is needed for the recipe above and store the rest in a cool dry place in an airtight container. (Yield: Approx. 1/4 cup)
Adapted from Joon, by Najmieh Batmanglij
Adapted from Joon, by Najmieh Batmanglij
Sea Sky & Table https://seaskyandtable.com/

Functional Foods: Turmeric & Saffron Basmati Rice

Exploring the flavors and techniques in Najmieh Batmanglij’s Joon naturally led to experimentation in new ways to infuse turmeric’s anti-inflammatory properties into every day cooking.  The original recipe uses saffron, not turmeric.  Saffron, however, is expensive, and turmeric can be used to complement or replace the saffron.   The flavor is different but still wonderful and the color is rich. I’ve used them together and individually.  The turmeric version is the one I use unless it’s a special occasion.   Either way, the star of this show is the tag-dig, the crunchy layer of golden rice that forms at the bottom of the pan.  Use a non-stick skillet to ensure the dish inverts into a complete, unbroken, disk.

Turmeric & Saffron Basmati Rice
My grandmother always began her rice dishes by frying a small slice of "tosino" (porkback) at the bottom of a heavy pot. A huge sizzle ensued as she poured the washed rice into the pot. Her rice was always perfect, but it was the "pegao", the layer of essentially fried rice that stuck loosely to the bottom of the pot that we all vied for. This recipe offers a version of pegao - substituting olive oil for porkfat and with the added benefits of yogurt and turmeric.
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Ingredients
  1. 3 c. white basmati rice
  2. 8 c. water
  3. 2 tblsp sea salt
  4. 1/2 c. olive oil
  5. 2 tblsp plain yogurt
  6. 1/2 tsp ground saffron and
  7. 1/4 tsp turmeric dissolved in 4 tblsp hot water
Instructions
  1. Wash the rice. Basmati rice is rather fragile, so place it in a large pot or container, fill with water, swish with your hand, rinse, and repeat 3 times. When the water is no longer cloudy, drain the rice in a fine mesh sieve and set aside.
  2. Fill a large, non-stick pot with 8 cups water, add the salt, and bring to a boil.
  3. in a small bowl, combine the 1/4 cup of the olive oil, all of the yogurt and 3 tblsp of the saffron/turmeric/water mixture. Set aside. You will use this for the tag-dig and the rest to sprinkle over the entire rice dish.
  4. Add the rice to the pot of water and boil briskly for 6 to 10 minutes, gently stirring twice with a wooden spoon to loosen any grains that stick to the bottom. Once the rice rises to the top, it is done.
  5. Drain the rice in a large fine-mesh strainer, rinse with water to stop it from cooking further and set aside.
  6. In the same pot, add the larger portion of the olive oil-yogurt-spice mixture and then stir in 3 heaping spatulas of the cooked rice. Combine gently until the mixture is fairly uniform in color. Spread out evenly in the bottom of the pot. This will form the crust (tah dig, similar to pegao).
  7. Gently heap the remaining rice onto the tag dig layer. Spread evenly, leaving room around the edges for expansion.
  8. Cover the pot and cook the rice for 10 minutes over medium heat.
  9. Mix the remaining 1/4 c. olive oil with 1/4 c. water and the remaining saffron-turmeric water. Sprinkle over the rice and cover tightly. Reduce heat to low and cook for 70 minutes.
  10. Remove the pot from the heat and let it cool, covered, on a damp dish towel for 5 minutes to loosen the crust.
  11. Shake the pan to ensure the rice is free from the bottom. If it needs help, gently insert a spatula to loosen the bottom.
  12. Place a serving platter over the pot, invert and serve. The rice should look almost like a cake with a golden crust.
Notes
  1. If it doesn't emerge intact, don't worry, it's still delicious!
Adapted from Joon, by Natmieh Batmanglij
Adapted from Joon, by Natmieh Batmanglij
Sea Sky & Table https://seaskyandtable.com/

Functional Foods: Turmeric & Lime Roast Chicken

 

Functional Foods - Turmeric & Lime Roast Chicken

The combination of turmeric and lime make this recipe ideal any time of year.  Its color is perfect for fall, yet lime makes it sparkle like summer.  Zest the limes used for the wet rub and use it in the wet rub.  Half a lime, an onion, garlic and bay leaf in the cavity keep the meat moist.  Remove them before serving and reserve for a pot of chicken soup.  If you can’t find fresh turmeric, dried turmeric works perfectly.  It is now a staple in our kitchen.  Recipe adapted from Joon, by Najmieh Batmanglij.

Turmeric & Lime Roast Chicken
This is an easy recipe to try if you are looking for ways to incorporate turmeric into your diet. In this recipe, dried turmeric is actually easier to use than fresh as it's easier to rub evenly over the entire chicken, inside and out. The parchment paper makes serving and cleanup a breeze.
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Ingredients
  1. 1 chicken, 3 to 4 lbs.
  2. WET RUB
  3. ========
  4. 2 tbsp olive oil
  5. 2 limes, juiced and zested
  6. DRY RUB
  7. ========
  8. 1 tbsp sea salt
  9. 1 tbsp freshly ground pepper
  10. 2 tsp turmeric
  11. 1 tbsp herbes de Provence (See Note)
  12. 1 bay leaf
  13. STUFFING
  14. =========
  15. 1 small onion, peeled and halved
  16. 4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
  17. 1 lime, cut in half
  18. BASTE
  19. ======
  20. 1/4 c. olive oil
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees Farenheit.
  2. Lined a rimmed sheet pan with parchment paper.
  3. In a small bowl, combine all the dry rub ingredients and set aside.
  4. In another small bowl, combine the wet rub ingredients.
  5. Remove the giblet packet from the chicken, rinse the chicken inside and out, pat dry, and place in the lined sheet pan.
  6. Pour half of the wet rub mixture inside half outside. Rub all over to cover the entire chicken.
  7. Rub the dry rub mixture over the chicken, inside and out.
  8. Stuff the chicken with the onion, garlic, half a lime and a bay leaf.
  9. Cover with another sheet of parchment paper and roast for 1 hour. Remove the paper, drizzle with olive oil, and roast for another 30 minutes, uncovered, Remove from oven and baste the chicken.
  10. Carve and serve. This dish pairs beautifully with saffron & basmati rice. (See recipe)
Notes
  1. If you don't have pre-mixed herbes de Provence, crush 1 teaspoon each of rosemary, thyme, and sage with a mortar and pestle to yield the 1 tablespoon required for this recipe.
  2. This dish pairs beautifully with saffron and basmati rice, vegetables and a salad.
Adapted from Joon, by Natmieh Batmanglij
Adapted from Joon, by Natmieh Batmanglij
Sea Sky & Table https://seaskyandtable.com/

Eggplant Caponata and Roasted Tomato Tart

8924_Eggplant and Tomato Tart

This recipe packs a lot of flavor in small bites – pureed Italian caponata for the eggplant filling, cream cheese to offset the smokiness of paprika in the tart shell, and fresh oregano on the roasted grape tomatoes. Serve with a salad of mixed greens with lemon vinaigrette.  Pastry and roasted grape tomatoes adapted from Tarts, Sweet and Savory by Maxine Clark; caponata adapted from the Italian Kitchen Bible by Kate Whiteman, Jeni Wright and Angela Boggiano.

Caponata and Roasted Grape Tomato Tart
Try the individual components alone, in a salad, or as a side. Put them together for a tastebud adventure.
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Ingredients
  1. TART PASTRY
  2. ========================
  3. 6 tblsp butter
  4. 1 c. plus 2 tblsp. flour
  5. 1/2 tsp. smoked paprika
  6. 1/2 tsp. dry mustard powder
  7. 1/2 c. cream cheese
  8. 1 large egg yolk
  9. 2 tblsp. ice water
  10. sea salt and freshly ground pepper
  11. ROASTED GRAPE TOMATOES
  12. =========================
  13. 2 pints grape tomatoes
  14. 2 garlic cloves, minced
  15. 1 to 2 tblsp. chopped fresh oregano
  16. 1/4 c. olive oil
  17. sea salt and freshly ground pepper
  18. CAPONATA FILLING
  19. =========================
  20. 1 large eggplant (about 1-1/2 lb.)
  21. 4 tbsp. olive oil
  22. grated rind and juice of 1 lemon
  23. 2 tbsp. capers
  24. 12 pimiento-stuffed olives
  25. 2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
  26. salt and freshly ground pepper
Instructions
  1. TART SHELL: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
  2. Place the flour, paprika, mustard powder, salt, pepper, and flour in the bowl of a food processor and pulse once to blend.
  3. Add the butter and pulse quickly until the mixture is very coarse and crumbly.
  4. Add the cream cheese and pulse a few times, so that the mixture is still coarse and crumbly.
  5. Mix the egg with 2 tblsp. ice water and pour in slowly, pulsing until just mixed into a soft dough.
  6. Working quickly, form the dough into an oblong (or round) shape about 1-inch thick, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes (or overnight).
  7. Roll out the dough, place in the tart shell, and refrigerate or freeze for another 15 minutes.
  8. Prick the bottom of the shell with a fork, line the shell with aluminum foil, place pie weights or dried beans on the foil, and bake blind for 10 - 12 minutes. Place on a rack to cool.
  9. SLOW-ROASTED TOMATOES: Place the tomatoes on a baking sheet in a single layer.
  10. Combine the oil, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper and brush over the tomatoes.
  11. Bake slowly for approximately 60 minutes. The tomatoes should shrink only slightly and should remain a bright red color. (They will cook another 25 minutes when the tart is assembled.)
  12. The tomatoes can be roasted up to a day ahead. Simply ensure they are brushed with oil and covered tightly in the refrigerator.
  13. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees.
  14. EGGPLANT CAPONATA FILLING: Cut the eggplant into 1-inch cubes.
  15. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet. Cook the eggplant cubes over medium heat in two batches for about 10 minutes, tossing regularly, until golden and softened.
  16. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt.
  17. Place the eggplant cubes in a large bowl. Toss with the lemon rind and juice, capers, olives, and chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
  18. Puree half the mixture for the tart filling and refrigerate the rest to serve with a salad.
  19. ASSEMBLY: Break an egg into a bowl, whisk with a fork and add the eggplant puree. Mix until blended.
  20. Place the eggplant puree mix into the half-baked tart shell. The mixture to reach just short of the top.
  21. Arrange roasted grape tomatoes on the tart.
  22. Bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes or until set.
  23. Remove from the oven and let cool. Brush lightly with olive oil and serve.
Adapted from Tarts Savory and Sweet; and The Italian Kitchen Bible
Adapted from Tarts Savory and Sweet; and The Italian Kitchen Bible
Sea Sky & Table https://seaskyandtable.com/

Carrot and Ginger Soup

8709_2015-07-18_Carrot & Ginger Soup_Blog, Featured

I love soup. The cilantro added at the very end adds a splash of color and complements the ginger well.  Adapted from the Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook by Julie Rosso and Sheila Lukins.

Carrot and Ginger Soup
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Ingredients
  1. 6 tbsp. (3/4 stick) unsalted butter
  2. 1 large yellow onion, chopped
  3. 1/4 c. finely chopped fresh ginger root
  4. 3 cloves garlic, sliced
  5. 8 cups chicken stock
  6. 1-1/2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  7. 2 tblsp. fresh lemon juice
  8. 1/8 tsp curry powder
  9. Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
  10. Chopped, well-washed cilantro for garnish
Instructions
  1. Melt the butter in a large stock pot over medium heat.
  2. Add the onion, ginger, and garlic and saute for 15-20 minutes.
  3. Add the stock and carrots. Heat to boiling. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, over medium heat until the carrots are very tender, about 45 minutes.
  4. Puree the soup. Season with lemon juice, curry powder and salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with chopped cilantro.
  5. Serve hot or chilled.
Adapted from Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook
Adapted from Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook
Sea Sky & Table https://seaskyandtable.com/