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Chocolate Creme Brulee

After a friend recommended the movie “Paris Can Wait,” with Diane Lane, I simply had to indulge her and her husband with a Chocolate Creme Brulee at our weekly dinner.  This recipe is from Chocolate Epiphany by Chef Francois Payard (with delectable photography by Rogerio Voltan).  We were only 4 persons, and I only had 4-ounce (not 6-ounce) ramekins, so I halved Chef Payard’s ingredients.  You might try reducing the sugar just a bit further.  

Chocolate Creme Brulee
Serves 4
Easier to make than you think, this chocolate version of a French classic can be made a day or two ahead and refrigerated until ready to serve.
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Ingredients
  1. 6 oz 72% chocolate, chopped
  2. 1/3 cup sugar
  3. 4 large egg yolks
  4. 3 c/ plus 3 tbsp. heavy cream
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.
  2. Arrange 4 four-ounce ramekins in a shallow baking pan (like an 8" x 8" brownie pan).
  3. Place approximately a quart of water to boil.
  4. In a stand mixer, whisk the eggs until yellow and thicker than when they came out of the shell. Add the sugar and continue to whisk until thick and pale yellow.
  5. In a medium saucepan, heat the milk until bubbles form at the edges of the pan (just before it boils). Remove from heat and stir/whisk in the chocolate until it is melted and the mixture is smooth.
  6. Take a ladel-ful of the chocolate mixture and very slowly, drizzle it into the egg mixture to temper the eggs, whisking constantly to keep the eggs from curdling.
  7. With the whisk on medium, slowly pour in the rest of the chocolate mixture into the egg mixture, until everything is combined.
  8. Strain the custard through a fine sieve into a pitcher. At this point you can cover and refrigerate the mixture for up to 2 days.)
  9. Divide the mixture evenly among the ramekins.
  10. Take the boiling water and pour it into a 4-cup Pyrex measuring cup with spout.
  11. Place the ramekins in the oven.
  12. Carefully pour the water into the shallow baking pan until it reaches approximately halfway up the sides of the ramekins.
  13. Bake the custards for 1 hour, until the custard is just set.
  14. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature.
  15. Referigerate the ramekins until the custard is completely set and chilled, at least 3 hours or up to 2 days.
  16. FINISH THE DESSERT: With the ramekins on a baking sheet, spread the top of each custard with an even layer of about 1 tablespoon sugar. Burn the sugar with a kitchen torch until it forms a crisp, caramel-colored crust, being careful not to scorch the chocolate.
Notes
  1. Chef Payard recommends using dried brown sugar (as regular brown sugar out of the box has too high a moisture content to caramelize). To dry brown sugar, place the sugar on a baking sheet and dry it in a preheated oven at 200 degrees Farenheit for about 1 hour. Transfer the sugar to a bowl fitted with the paddle attachment and mix on low to break up the lumps.
Adapted from Chocolate Epiphany by Francois Payard
Adapted from Chocolate Epiphany by Francois Payard
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Chocolate Pot de Crème for Two

 

So many recipes are designed for a large family or small dinner party. As the nest empties – or before it grows – here is an easy recipe for Chocolate Pot de Crème for two adapted from Paris: Authentic Recipes Celebrating the Foods of the World from the Williams Sonoma collection.

Chocolate Pot de Creme for Two
An easy recipe for Chocolate Pot de Crème, tailored for two servings. Top it with a thin layer of salted butter caramel (see post of same date) and a dollop of whipped cream.
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Ingredients
  1. 1/3 c. milk
  2. 1/4 c. cream
  3. 1/4 c. sugar (omit if using a sweetened chocolate like Chocolat-Menier)
  4. 2 oz best quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped into small pieces
  5. 1/2 tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder
  6. tiny pinch of salt (think 1/4 of a pinch used for the version that serves 8)
  7. 1 whole egg, whisked
  8. 1/4 tsp. vanilla
  9. heavy cream or whipped cream for garnish
Instructions
  1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
  2. Place a kettle of water to boil for the bain marie.
  3. In a heavy saucepan, over low heat, combine the milk, cream and sugar and stir until bubbles form at the edges.
  4. Remove from heat and stir in both chocolates and the salt and stir until smooth.
  5. Return to medium heat and stir constantly until small bubbles form at the edges (approximately 3-4 minutes).
  6. Remove from heat.
  7. in a separate bowl containing the whisked egg, whisk a few spoonfuls of the chocolate mixture to temper the egg without cooking it. Whisk in a few more spoonfuls, then slowly pour and whisk the egg mixture back into the saucepan with the chocolate mixture. Stir in the vanilla.
  8. Pour the mixture into two 3-1/2-inch ramekins, filling them almost to the top.
  9. Place the ramekins in a brownie pan and surround the ramekins with hot water from the kettle. Cover the pan with aluminum foil.
  10. Bake until the edges are firm but the centers tremble slightly (or until a thin knife inserted in the center comes out clean).
  11. Remove from the water bath, cool, wrap, and refrigerate fro 2 hours or 2 days.
  12. Serve cold. Garnish with whipped cream or just create a tiny well in the center with a knife and pour a splash of heavy cream into the center.
Notes
  1. In a pinch, I have substituted evaporated milk for the cream and been quite pleased with the results. We often use Chocolate Menier, a bar brand used for making hot chocolate, because it's what we have in the house; and Ghiradelli cocoa powder.
Adapted from Williams Sonoma's Paris
Adapted from Williams Sonoma's Paris
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Coconut Clementine Cake with Chocolate Glaze

This recipe is adapted from Melissa Clark’s Ambrosia Cake published in the New York Times on April 7, 2017 just before Easter and the recipe for Chocolate Glaze in Larousse on Pastry.  The search for a dessert for Easter dinner began with a desire for something frosted in white, garnished with coconut and strewn with edible flowers.  Melissa’s cake seemed perfectly adaptable.  I would use whipped cream instead of the marshmallow frosting, and edible flowers in lieu of strawberries.

When I couldn’t find edible flowers in any of our local South Florida grocers, the dried edible rose petals I had on hand  seemed like a good substitute – at first.  But neither the coconut nor the clementines seemed palatable with dried rose petals; and, quite simply, I began to crave chocolate to compensate for not being able to realize my vision.

At first, I thought I would use a clementine-flavored chocolate ganache and clementine sections as the filling.

But the bulk of the clementine sections would have made the cake appear lumpy once a second layer was placed on top.

So, the bottom layer became the top layer and the entire cake was enveloped in chocolate.

Delicious!  It helps to use fresh coconut, but it’s not a must.  The clementines must be sweet.  

Melissa Clark crafted a lovely flavor combination in the cake.  Enveloped in chocolate, garnished with clementine sections and edged in flaked fresh coconut, the layers of flavor will make you stop and savor the moment.    

Coconut Clementine Cake with Chocolate Glaze
Sweet clementines, fresh coconut and chocolate make this cake fresh and satisfying. Sugar is already reduced from the original recipes. If you prefer a 4-layer cake, bake the cakes 1-2 days ahead, follow the instructions for refrigeration, and be sure to slice through the layers horizontally when the cake is nice and cold.
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Ingredients
  1. CAKE
  2. =====
  3. 2-3/4 c. flour
  4. 1 tbs. baking powder
  5. 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
  6. 1/2 c. whole milk
  7. 1/2 c. unsweetened coconut milk
  8. 1 tbs. dark rum (or 1 tsp coconut extract)
  9. 1 tsp. vanilla extract
  10. 12 tbs. (1-1/2 sticks) unsaltened butter, softened
  11. 1/4 c. virgin coconut oil, melted and cooled (or butter)
  12. 1 c. LESS 1 heaping tbs. sugar
  13. 4 large egs, room temperature, whites & yolks separated
  14. 1-1/4 tsp finely grated clementine zest (about 2 clementines)
  15. FROSTING
  16. =========
  17. 8 oz bitter chocolate (70% Lindt Dark Chocolate works well)
  18. 2 tbsp butter
  19. 1 c. LESS 2 tbsp. whole milk
  20. 2 tbsp. heavy cream (or creme fraiche)
  21. 1-3/4 tbsp. sugar
  22. Juice from 2 clementines, strained
  23. GARNISH
  24. ========
  25. Clementine sections, cleaned of the veins (about 2 more clementines)
Instructions
  1. CAKE: Heat oven to 350 degrees.
  2. Butter two 9-inch cake pans and line the bottom with parchment paper.
  3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients.
  4. In a separate bowl, whisk together the milk, coconut milk, rum, and vanilla.
  5. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat butter, coconut oil, and sugar together until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
  6. Beat in egg yolks, one at a time, then beat in the zest.
  7. Beat in half the flour mixture, followed by half the milk mixture. Repeat, beating just until combined and scraping down the bowl as necessary.
  8. In a separate bowl, use an electric beater to whisk the egg whites, just until stiff peaks form. Fold into the cake batter.
  9. Divide the batter between the 2 pans. Bake until lightly golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Transfer pans to a wire rack to cool 10 minutes, then unmold the cakes and cool completely on the rack. (Cakes can be made up to 2 days ahead. Once cool, remove the parchment paper, wrap in plastic and refrigerate. This makes it much easier to slice the 2 cakes into 4 layers.)
  10. FROSTING: Bring water to simmer in a double boiler. Break the chocolate into pieces and place in the top part of the double-boiler . Gently melt, stirring with a wooden spoon.
  11. Cut the butter into small pieces. Add to the warm chocolate and mix gently until smooth and creamy.
  12. Put the milk in a small saucepan, and bring to the point where small bubbles form at the edge of the pan. Remove the saucepan from the heat and add the heavy cream, sugar, and clementine juice. Whisk well and bring back to a gentle simmer. (Do not boil.)
  13. Pour the contents of the saucepan into the chocolate mixture, whisking constantly until smooth. Pour into a large measuring cup with a pouring spout, or into a pitcher.
  14. Pour slowly over each layer, beginning from the center and circling into gradually widening circles. When working on the top of the cake, work quickly, before the frosting hardens, to flatten with a long offset spatula.
  15. Decorate with clementine sections.
Notes
  1. About the chocolate... I used to think that the higher the percent of cocoa solids the better. But when I began using 85% and 90% dark chocolate, my chocolate glazes became grainy. At first, I thought it might be the brand. I switched from Ghiradelli to Lindt. But the results remained grainy. Finally, one day, I went back to 70% dark chocolate and voila! Perfection! Irrespective of brand. I guess there is such a thing as too much of a good thing.
Adapted from Melissa Clark & Larousse on Pastry
Adapted from Melissa Clark & Larousse on Pastry
Sea Sky & Table https://seaskyandtable.com/

Buche de Noel (French Christmas Cake)

Quintessentially French and festive, a Buche de Noel is the bakers’ holy grail of Christmas creations.   For me, it once seemed unattainable.  Not any more.  With the right pan, a pastry brush, an attractive rectangular plate to serve it in, and the wisdom to bake, wrap, and refrigerate (or freeze) the unfrosted cake up to two days in advance, I am now on a buche de noel roll (pun intended), creating variations on a theme to bring to friends and family leading up to the holiday season.  All credit goes to David Lebovitz’ My Paris Kitchen and a 12″x 18″ jelly roll pan (which I bought a few years ago when experimenting with Collette’s Birthday Cakes by Collette Peters) and a boars’ bristle pastry brush from William Sonoma received as a Christmas gift last year.  But mostly, credit goes to David Lebovitz and his photographer Ed Anderson.  Their description, instructions and illustrations made the project approachable and a wonderful excuse to begin the holiday baking season!

Buche de Noel (Christmas Yule Log)
This recipe substitutes 1/3 c. of the cake flour with dutch process cocoa powder; substitutes David Leibovitz' original ricotta filling with a lighter version of Francois Payard's green tea pastry cream; and lightens the sugar load in every component. The green tea in the pastry cream and the serotonin in the dark chocolate can only contribute to the good will of the holidays. If you are pressed for time, garnish with crushed pistachios and strained pomegranate seeds and sift confectioners' sugar on top. If you opt for the meringue mushrooms, make them a day ahead. (They take 1-1/2 hours to bake and another hour to cool down.) Store them in an air-tight container and add them as garnish at the last minute to maintain crispness. See Notes below for additional garnish ideas or Google "Buche de Noel" followed by the year for more extravagant inspiration from France's best patisseries.
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Ingredients
  1. GENOISE
  2. ========
  3. 4 large eggs, room temperature
  4. 1/2 c. sugar (reduced from 2/3 c.)
  5. Pinch of sea salt
  6. 1 tsp. vanilla
  7. 2/3 c. cake flour
  8. 1/3 c. dutch process cocoa powder
  9. 4 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled to room temperature
  10. Powdered sugar (for rolling the cake into shape)
  11. GREEN TEA PASTRY CREAM
  12. ========================
  13. 2 c. milk (whole or 2%)
  14. 2 tsp. powdered green tea
  15. 1/3 c. sugar
  16. 5 tbsp. cornstarch
  17. 6 large egg yolks
  18. 4 tbsp butter, cut into pieces
  19. 1 c. heavy cream (optional)
  20. CHOCOLATE ICING
  21. ================
  22. 5 oz. bittersweet or semi-sweet chocolate, chopped
  23. 1/4 c. coffee or water
  24. 6 tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature
  25. MERINGUE MUSHROOMS
  26. =====================
  27. 2 large egg whites, at room temperature
  28. Pinch of sea salt
  29. 1/3 c. granulated sugar (original amount)
  30. Generous pinch of cinnamon
  31. Powdered sugar to sift over finished cake
  32. 1-1/2 oz. bittersweet chocolate, chopped
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
  2. Make an X with butter or shortening on a 12" x 18" jelly roll pan and line the pan with parchment paper. Grease the paper and sides.
  3. GENOISE: Sift the flour and cocoa powder together. Set aside.
  4. Separately, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, beat the eggs, sugar, and salt on high speed until they hold a thick ribbon when you lift the whip, about 5 minutes. Whip in the vanilla.
  5. Remove the bowl from the mixer, sift 1/3 of the flour/cocoa mixture over the egg mixture and fold in. Repeat with the remaining two thirds of the flour/cocoa. Drizzle the melted, room-temperature butter and fold in. Overall, do not over-fold. Just enough to incorporate at each step.
  6. Scrape the batter into the jelly roll pan and spread into an even layer. It will be a thin layer. Bake 12 to 15 minutes or until golden brown and the center springs back lightly to the touch. Don't let it get too dry or it will crack (a lot) when you roll it. Remove from oven and allow to cool 5 minutes.
  7. Lay a kitchen towel on the counter top. Lightly sift some powdered sugar over the towel. Run a knife around the edge of the cake pan. Place the floured side of the towel onto the cake pan, hold firmly in place and overturn the cake pan onto the counter. Lift the pan away, then lift off the parchment paper. Starting on a long side, roll the cake up in the towel and allow to cool 1 hour.
  8. GREEN TEA PASTRY CREAM: Line a shallow 9"x9" pan with plastic wrap. Set aside.
  9. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, warm the milk until bubbles form at the edge and it is just short of boiling. Whisk in the green tea powder. Remove from heat and set aside.
  10. In a mixer bowl, sift the sugar and cornstarch together, add the egg yolks and beat until the yolks turn very pale yellow.
  11. Temper the egg yolks by placing a ladle-ful in a small cup or dish, and whisking in some of the hot milk in a slow steady stream. Whisk the tempered yolk mixture into the rest of the yolk mixture, then whisk in the rest of the milk mixture in a slow steady stream to keep the mixture from curdling.
  12. Once the milk is well incorporated, pass the mixture through a sieve into a clean saucepan and heat the mixture over medium heat, whisking gently, constantly, until it becomes very thick, coating the back of a wooden spoon. You can allow bubbles to pop in the center of the pan for up to 20 seconds to activate the cornstarch.
  13. Remove from heat.
  14. Add the butter, whisking constantly until incorporated.
  15. Pour the pastry cream through a sieve into the prepared pan and cover it with plastic wrap, directly on the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Allow to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate, at least 1 hour, or up to one day ahead.
  16. When ready to fill the Buche de Noel, whisk the heavy cream at medium speed in the bowl of an electric mixer until it holds soft peaks. Remove the green tea mixture from the refrigerator, whisk it to a creamy texture, and fold into the whipped heavy cream with a spatula.
  17. FILL & ROLL THE CAKE: Unroll the cake and spread the filling over the cake, leaving a 1-inch edge on each long side. As you roll the cake back up, support it carefully to support the added weight of the cream. Once completely rolled, wrap in plastic wrap - tightly enough that it holds its shape but not so tight that the cake is crushed. Place in the refrigerator to chill 1 hour (or freeze up to 2 days in advance.)
  18. MERINGUE: Preheat the oven to 225 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. In a stand mixer with a whip attachment, whip the egg whites with the salt on high speed until they form soft peaks. Continue whipping, adding the sugar a tablespoon at a time, unti lthe meringue is very stiff and glossy. Whip in the cinnamon.
  19. Transfer the meringue to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch round tip (or scrape it into a resealable plastic bag and snip a small hole in one corner). Pipe 22 round mushroom caps in 1-inch mounds. Pipe the 22 stems by making a base that is slightly thicker, tapering up to a tip as you pull straight up about 1 inch. Smooth the tops of the caps with a finger dipped in water. Bake the meringues for 1-1/2 hours. Remove from oven & allow to cool completely.
  20. To assemble the mushrooms, use a small pointy knife to carve a small hole in the bottom center of the mushroom caps, large enough to fit the pointy end of the stems.
  21. Melt a little chocolate and use it as glue to affix the mushroom stems to the bottom of the caps. Set on a rack to cool, then transfer to an airtight container until ready to use. (Mushrooms can be made up to 1 week in advance in an airtight container at room temperature.)
  22. ICING: In a double boiler, with the water already simmering, melt the chocolate with the coffee, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat, stir in the butter. Once smooth, let the icing sit until it's thick enough to spread. (Refrigerating it for about 30 minutes will help it thicken. When ready, stir again with a small whisk.)
  23. ASSEMBLY: Unroll and unwrap the cake. Cut to fit the serving platter. With the extra cake, cut a 2-inch slice to resemble a broken branch on top and set aside. Use the rest for additional branches on the side if your platter has room. If not, freeze the rest for future use.
  24. Frost the main part of the cake on the platter. (An offset spatula helps.) Then drag the short end of the spatula lightly along the length of the cake to resemble bark. (You can also use the tines of a fork.) If you like, arrange a "broken branch" at one end of the cake. Frost it and recreate the same bark look on the sides. On the cut side (facing up), create a smooth base.
  25. DECORATING: Use the meringue mushrooms to decorate the cake and platter and sprinkle with confectioners' sugar to resemble newly fallen snow.
Notes
  1. ALTERNATIVE FILLINGS
  2. ====================
  3. - ice cream
  4. - whipped cream
  5. - marzipan
  6. - chocolate ganache
  7. ALTERNATIVE DECORATIONS
  8. =========================
  9. - chopped pistachios
  10. - shaved chocolate
  11. - an angel (or tree) shortbread cookie with Noel in pistachios
  12. - marzipan ornaments
  13. - macaroons
Adapted from David Lebovitz' "My French Kitchen" & Francois Payard's "Chocolate Epiphany"
Adapted from David Lebovitz' "My French Kitchen" & Francois Payard's "Chocolate Epiphany"
Sea Sky & Table https://seaskyandtable.com/

Individual Chocolate Souffles

 

Simple and quick to prepare, these individual chocolate souffles, adapted from Irma Rombauer’s classic Joy of Cooking, are certain to delight. See the notes in the variation for tips on a recipe for two.

Individual Chocolate Souffles
Serves 6
Souffles once intimated me. Not any more! These are quick and easy with ingredients that are in our kitchen on a regular basis. The original recipe called for rum, coffee or water for flavoring. I like to use rioja wine or cranberry juice.
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Cook Time
20 min
Cook Time
20 min
Ingredients
  1. 8 oz semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped
  2. 4 tblsp (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
  3. 2 tblsp rioja wine, cranberry juice, rum, or coffee or water
  4. 6 large egg yolks
  5. 6 large egg whites, at room temperature
  6. Heaping 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
  7. 1/2 c sugar
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
  2. Butter and sugar six 10- to 11-ounce ramekins and arrange on a baking sheet.
  3. Combine in a heatproof bowl: chocolate, butter, flavoring.
  4. Set the bowl in a skillet of hot (but not simmering water) and stir until the mixture is smooth. Let cool for 10 minutes, then...
  5. Whisk in egg yolks.
  6. Separately, in a mixer, beat the egg whites until foamy.
  7. Add the cream of tartar to the egg whiles and beat at high speed until soft peaks form.
  8. Gradually beat in the sugar and beat until the peaks are stiff but not dry.
  9. Using a large rubber spatula, stir one-third of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture, then gently fold in the remaining mixture.
  10. Divide the batter equally among the prepared ramekins and smooth the tops.
  11. Bake until risen and set, about 20 minutes.
  12. Optional: After bringing the souffles to the table, cut a slit in the top and drop a dollop of whipped cream on top.
Notes
  1. SWEET ENOUGH FOR TWO: Break out the electric hand mixer with a whisk attachment, butter and sugar two 3-1/2-inch ramekins, and follow the instructions above with these measurements: 1 egg; 1 tbsp. butter; 1 tbsp. sugar; 1-1/6 oz dark chocolate; pinch of cream of tartar; 1/4 tbsp. prepared coffee, red wine, or cranberry juice.
Adapted from The Joy of Cooking
Adapted from The Joy of Cooking
Sea Sky & Table https://seaskyandtable.com/

Bittersweet Chocolate Icing

7781_Low-Fat Milk, Dark Chocolate, and a Whisk

 

Delicious with Christmas Spice Cake!  Adapted from Maida Heatter’s Cakes.

Bittersweet Chocolate Icing
This recipe accompanied Maida Heatter's recipe for Tomato Soup Cake, which I refer to as Christmas Spice Cake because most people can't conceive of tomato soup as a cake ingredient. Yet it is delicious. The soup adds moisture in a nutricious way to a recipe fragranced with cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and cocoa. To me, this cake spells Christmas.
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Ingredients
  1. 1/2 c. whipping cream
  2. 3 oz. unsweetened chocolate, chopped coarsely
  3. 5 oz. milk chocolate, chopped coarsely
Instructions
  1. Place cream in a small saucepan over moderate heat. Let cook uncovered, until there is a slight wrinkled skin on top or small bubbles form around the edges.
  2. Add the unsweetened cohocolate and stir until it is almost all melted.
  3. Transfer the mixture to the small bowl of an electric mixer. Beat at medium-high for 1 to 2 minutes, until the mixture becomes beautifully smooth, shiny and thick. Then, without waiting, pour the icing on the cake and quickly spread it over the top with a long, narrow spatula.
Adapted from a Maida Heatter recipe.
Adapted from a Maida Heatter recipe.
Sea Sky & Table https://seaskyandtable.com/